AGRR Magazine

AGRR Hall of Shame
This section is to point out the types of problems consumers and insurance companies should be aware of regarding improper windshield replacements. In some cases, descriptions have been edited for content. All photos have been submitted by AGR industry members.

These pictures are from a 2004 Ford F-250, The sad part here is, the company that did this job before me installed a quality OE Carlite Windshield, but failed to do a very easy and inexpensive step. PRIME the scars on the pinchweld. I see it almost every single day.
Submitted by Lance Spitler/ Packerland Automotive Glass


This is a photo taken of a car that came to us from an auto dealer in Duluth, MN to repair a windshield leak in the upper left corner. Upon removal of the glass we found this. The previous technician left the protective tape on the corner of the windshield when they installed it! It left us wondering what kind of person would do such a thing! It was no surprise that the pinch weld wasn’t primed either.
Submitted by George Weller/ City Automotive Glass


I went out to do a warrenty on a MB ML350 that had a persistant wind noise. I was the 3rd tech to try to solve this, so they gave me another w/s to put in. When I cut the old w/s out, what I found was that the previous tech had not removed the cowl, did not trim the original factory bead down at all, slapped a little urethane on it, and sent it on down the road. Inclosed are pictures of the w/s after removal. You can plainly see the original factory bead and what the tech did. I also had to treat minor surface rust as the previous tech didn't use any body primers. What really stinks is that it was a waste of a dealer w/s.
Submitted by Michael Preston / Safelite Automotive Glass


Submitted by Gary
   
   

2005 Ford F350 that had been replaced before truck ever sold. These images demonstrate how quickly rust can start.
Submitted by Shane Burk / Shane Burk Automotive Glass


This van was transferred to Iowa from a different state so our shop could replace the windshield and take care of a leaking problem. After getting down to the bottom of the rust, we suggested the vechicle visit a body shop to deal with replacing most of the pinchweld. The company had previously tried to fix the leak with expanding foam. They eventually junked the truck, even though it ran fine and had several more serviceable miles left in it.
Submitted by Becky Bechtel / Know Chips Automotive Glass


The van pictured was sitting in a gas station in Brighton. We used this photo in some training we conducted as how not to do it. The windshield was set in Liquid Nails. The 2 X 4 was holding it in place while it dried. The dry time on Liquid Nails is over 24 hours.
Submitted by Dave Z. / Auto One Inc.


I have some photos that will blow you away ... this happened a couple of years ago. I walked into an account where an installer was hacking away at this Suburban. With the installers permission I started to take a few snap shots. He ignored all the scratches I pointed out to him while I was taking pictures. In fact, he didn't primer this job at all. End result ... in a few years will be a major rust problem.
Submitted by Brian Sumsion / Clear Star Glass


Corroded pinchweld due to a plunge cut. "The picture doesn't show it but I could clearly see a score line from a utility knife. A dremel tool with a conical grinder is the best way I've discovered to remove the corrosion."
Submitted by Ken Drews / A Better Windshield


Another example of a plunge cut performed by an unskilled technician. (PIC 1) If this isn't treated it will completely corrode the pinchweld leaving no place for the urethane to bond to. (PIC 2) All corrosion has been removed with a dremel grinder. (PIC 3) Application of a Dupont self etching primer as per manufacturers directions. (PIC 4) Surface is prepared with a compatible pinchweld primer to allow adhesion to the urethane adhesive.
Submitted by Ken Drews / A Better Windshield


2002 Ford Taurus that had been installed with silicone on top of original urethane. Car only had 18,000 miles on it when it came to us for a replacement. Customer said it had always leaked and that shop never could fix it.
Submitted by Shane Burk/ Shane Burk Automotive Glass

 
 

Nissan Pathfinder pinchweld across the top. Previous installer failed to prime body of vehicle and a little over a year later this is the result.
Submitted by Shane Burk/ Shane Burk Automotive Glass


Here is a picture of what will happen if corrosion isn't treated properly. The pinchweld is completely corroded away and there is absolutely nothing for the urethane to bond to.
Submitted by Ken Drews / A Better Windshield


"This corrosion was caused by a lazy technician's plunge cut (by the way we round off our tips of our utility knives to keep them from gouging the e-coat and we don't EVER plunge cut) and needed some serious repair work." The corrosion was removed with a dremel grinder/ rust buster wheel (for removing paint) and cleaned with acetone. We applied Dupont A4115S self-etching primer for corrosion resistance as per manufacturer's directions then top coated with a compatible pinchweld primer.
Submitted by Ken Drews / A Better Windshield


Here is a picture that clearly shows the plunge that a technician made. This improper cut alone accounts for most of the corrosion that I see in my shop. The second photo is an example of how a plunge cut is made. Of course I took this picture just for demonstration purposes and didn't really 'plunge' down into the e-coat. Technicians make this cut while removing the molding and excess urethane around the edge of the w/s.
Submitted by Ken Drews / A Better Windshield


These photos document corrosion damage found/repaired for the three repairable Levels of Corrosion. Each set of photos documents the Corrosion Found, damage mitigation (abrading of the steel), and restoration of a corrosion protection layer prior to the completion of normal installation procedures per the adhesive manufacturer's specifications. Level Four Corrosion is not repairable and is not shown. Vehicles with Level Four Corrosion must be sent to an auto body repair facility.
Submitted by Mark Rizzi / ACR Glass

LEVEL ONE
 
LEVEL TWO
 
LEVEL THREE
 

"My photos show why certification for this industry is important . I got a call from a Ford dealer to fix a water leak. When I checked the windshield I could almost push the windshield out. What I did was push up on the windshield and cut what few spots were holding the windshield in with an Olfa knife and I can tell you there was not much to cut." Photo 1 shows the molding on the windshield: Note it';s upside down also note the wrinkles on the molding at the corner. Photo 2 shows how little urethane held the windshield in at the top. I could see no sign of glass primer. Photo 3 shows how inadequate the bead of urethane was. In the corner you can see where the glass touched the urethane. Also you can see the dirt left by the water leaking in just past the urethane contact point at the corner. Photos 4 and 5 show the bottom - more contact but little adhesion. Note the spaces where urethane did not adhere and I saw no sign of primers. Photo 6 and 7 show how easy it was for me to pull the urethane from the pinch weld. I did not have to use an Olfa knife to remove the urethane.
Submitted by Don Deane / Mothers Totally Mobile Autoglass

 
 

E-mail your pictures to Bryan Hovey (bhovey@glass.com).
Include your name and company (so we can credit the photos) and a brief description of the problem.

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